Initially we were hoping to visit to Europe and wander cobblestone streets, ride bikes, and sit in quiet cafes along the riverside sipping tea and eating pastries, but trying to coordinate flights between the two of us proved more challenging than we anticipated.

Every time we thought we had something mapped out, tickets either sold out, soared in price, or the airlines had us rerouted with some truly horrendous layovers. If we had approval a few weeks ago, we might have a different story, but some times in life you have to adjust your plans.

So where could we go on such short notice?

Oddly enough the best option turned out to be a familiar one…Cambodia.

Cambodia, didn’t you two already visit there on your honeymoon?

Yes, but in all fairness we were only there for two plus days and have always wanted to return. I suppose it’s hard to explain, but Cambodia is one of the few countries on earth where you can feel every possible human emotion in the span of a short time and to an incredibly powerful degree. You find yourself awestruck, haunted, and enchanted all at the same time.

This time we will start out in Phnom Penh and venture back to Angkor Wat in Siem Reap for a better look. To be honest we only spent one day there the last time and only scratched the surface of what remains one of the world’s hidden wonders.

So with visas, malaria meds, and a ton of sunscreen we’re heading back!

What some might consider a problem, I saw as a challenge.

About an hour northwest of central Tokyo in Saitama, the Seibu Lions play in perhaps what is one of the strangest stadiums in all of sports.  At the same time they also happen to have a pretty good ballclub, but are fighting to make the playoffs this year after winning the Japan Series last year.

It was at that time I first took notice of the team, especially their third baseman.   At first glance Takeya Nakamura would appear highly unlikely to make any professional roster, but looks can be deceiving…

So with the potential to witness something that comical I decide to make the trek north and along the way managed to reacquaint myself with nature.  For one of the drawbacks living in the heart of Tokyo is that you can easily forget what trees and grass look, feel, and even smell like.

A game at the Seibu Dome truly was a refreshing change of pace even though I couldn’t quite get over sitting in open air, domed stadium.  It sounds like an oxymoron, but it’s true and really hard to describe.  The building is basically wedged into the hillside which leads you to climb up into your seats depending on where you decide to sit.  The sections of the stadium are based on a ticket pricing system, but within your grid it’s first come first serve.  If that wasn’t enough, the roof is fitted into a cone surrounding the park propped up on pylons that circle the stadium.

(I hope that made sense…if not Google it or simply ignore the last paragraph.)

The atmosphere as usual was raucous with everyone dressed in their team gear, waving flags, banging noise sticks, and chanting all throughout with a trumpet and booming bass drum.  Unfortunately it wasn’t enough on Saturday as Lions fell short losing 3-2.

On Sunday the weather improved considerably, but the fortunes of the Lions by the middle of the third inning seemed cloudy at best.  As they trailed 6-2 I began to wonder if it was me who seemed to spread bad karma from one ballpark to the next for any team I took so much as took a passing interest in.  Keep in mind it been ages now since I left a ballpark happy as the Swallows have been in a freefall (8-24-1 in August).

Still I remained hopeful as the Lions lineup seemed poised to make some noise while trying to claw their way back into the ballgame.  My patience paid off, not once but twice…

In the 5th while trailing 6-4 Nakamura delivered a blast to pull the Lions within one.

Then in the bottom of the 8th after all-star shortstop Hiroyuki Nakajima belted his second homer of the day to give the Lions the lead for the first time, Nakamura added an insurance run with his second to make the score 10-8!  The video will give you a quick take on the insanity…

It’s rare to attend a game with the hopes of seeing someone live up to their billing, especially when you’re asking them to hit homeruns.  What made it even better was hi-fiving the fans and dancing in the aisles after the crew behind me saw my Nakamura t-shirt and insisted I join the celebration (yeah, I caved, but understand I’ve been wearing the same five t-shirts since all our stuff got shipped to Shanghai).  Meanwhile I couldn’t help but overhear them laugh at the idea that a gaijin would take such a rooting interest in their team.

But what’s not to like?

As a change of pace it was fun and depending on my schedule I may very well head back.  While it isn’t the closest team for me to watch, it is easier to take in a game once there.  Makes me wonder if M would have actually enjoyed Japanese baseball if we had adopted them instead?

Do I still love the Swallows?   Of course, just like I love the Mets…warts and all, forever hoping for the best and expecting the worst.  But the Lions, much like this year’s version of the Mariners always make things entertaining win or lose which in times like these makes all the difference.  Will they make the playoffs?  Hard to say, but it should be fun to watch them try.

Bento Boxes in America

I’ll be honest, after living here for three years now I find American portions ridiculous.  Whenever M and I eat out now we usually share an appetizer and one entree simply because the volume of food rivals something Fred Flintstone would eat.

Even the Chinese crew that dropped off everything complimented the Japanese for their wrapping ability.

For the better part of today M has been unpacking, but from the looks of everything it seems that we can finally make the apartment a little bit cozier.

So…we’re getting there.  Well, the one last detail being me.

Each time I come back to Japan I feel that I’m trapped in a different time and place.

In many ways it reminds me of when I first arrived here, alone, living in a service apartment, and simply trying to occupy my time when not working.

I won’t lie, it’s frustrating as you venture out with the feeling of  ”been there, done that.”

So what have I been doing besides basic chores and whining about the situation?

Well…not much.

I’ve wandered in and out of  the shops of Shinjuku, Shibuya and Harajuku looking in vain for a pair of sneakers as a request from one of M’s colleagues who helped her get settled.

Eat in a variety of restaurants featuring noodles, more noodles, and sometimes rice to mix things up.  I joke, the food is good, especially the Korean place down the block that actually features a vegetarian dish which literally makes you breathe fire.

Mostly though I’ve been going to Yakult Swallows baseball games.  Especially games in which the Swallows find the most painful way to lose. Prior to last night, the last four games I attended were all against the first place Giants and all four proved excruciating as the Giants either persevered or the Swallows simply folded.  Perhaps the best example came last Sunday night as the Swallows closer walked in not one, but two runs to lose 2-1.

Last night against the Swallows rallied in the bottom of the 9th to tie the game 3-3, but once again our closer decided to make things interesting in the top of the 10th.   First he decided to “challenge” the Dragons cleanup hitter, a man with 34 homers with nothing but fastballs.

Boom.  4-3.

Then he gave up  two singles and to put the nail in the coffin, fired a wild-pitch directly to the backstop (the catcher didn’t, correction…couldn’t even put a glove on it) making the score 5-3 Dragons.

Tonight I will go back and will continue to go back for as long as they keep playing.  I grew up a Mets fan, so disappointment is not something that will keep me away.  Tickets are relatively cheap, $15-30 depending on what’s available.   The games while nothing special offer me a chance to forget the nonsense of the world around me and occasionally offer tutorials to British colleagues who have taken a liking to the game.

For now I suppose that’s good enough?!?

Eh, who am I kidding, I’m ready to move on and get back to the future.

Transitioning between two countries can be challenging, especially when you find yourself in limbo.  When I visit Shanghai I find that I’m no longer a tourist, but have difficulty considering myself a resident.

In the past two months I’ve managed to visit twice and these are my thoughts…

Shanghai, as we may have mentioned earlier, has a vibe that makes it quite livable.  It’s the type of place you can venture out on a Saturday morning to get brunch, see a movie, buy towels for the bathroom, and enjoy a Blizzard at Dairy Queen. Mundane tasks for most, but for us a few bites of banality are rather enjoyable on occasion given the current pace of the universe.

Even on my own I find it easy to venture out as I managed to pick up some items for M; nevertheless you can always find adventure in the simplest of tasks.   Imagine me explaining to a store clerk through pantomime which hairdryer I need to buy for my wife.  All in all the woman was a really good sport, but she had to think it was crazy for a bald white man to be pestering her for something he clearly didn’t need.

Eventually though I tend to grow tired of wandering and make my way back home to the apartment.  M did a fantastic job finding a place that gets amazing sunlight all day without baking any one part of the house.  In terms of space it’s the type of place you can really feel comfortable living with plenty of room for the three of us.

At the same time it’s not like I want to spend a ton of time there either as I can never sit still.  Given the options on TV I think I have a strong case.  Most of CCTVs programs are historical dramas, travel guides, news, sports (plenty of table tennis and badminton), and the occasional recycled foreign program.  Honestly I’m not cut out to be a housewife as I don’t think I can stand watching any more old episodes of Top Gear, Hannah Montana, and Japanese soap operas.  I mean seriously, once Ichiro and Akiko’s wedding was sabotaged, I lost all interest…

Besides there was an eclipse!

Sadly this turned out to be bit of a disappointment in Shanghai as rain spoiled the event.  Don’t get me wrong, it was still really cool, but could have been amazing to see it for real.  Even worse, it’s not like you can stick around and wait for the next one.

Overall I like the place and want to get there soon.  Living apart from the ones you love is something you grow accustomed to as an expat, but without your nucleus it’s really hard.  M is like the glue that keeps me together when it seems like everything else is insane and Gizmo…well…he holds a special place in my heart by helping me realize that life shouldn’t be taken too seriously when there are so many things to check out and urinate on.

So when I visit Shanghai I feel like I’m getting the chance to look into the future for myself and M, when I return to Japan I feel lost in the past.

I’m hoping it’s over…

Times like this I really miss my wife and puppy.

As part of the move, I needed to get Gizmo to China and safely return him to his mother.  I chose to do this, not because it was easy, but because it was too hard for M to do…

With M leading the way I needed to stay behind and get our little man ready for his mission.  Unlike his trip to Japan, this would not involve a trip to grandma’s house and a cushy flight curled at her feet in a bag under her seat.

Nope, Giz was going to have to fly under the plane and then spend a week in quarantine with the Chinese.

Believe me, this wasn’t by choice, as we’ve managed to fly with carriers that allow dogs onboard in the past; however this time I had no choice as the timing of the quarantine offices in Japan and China provided us a small window to fly, with an even smaller number of carriers to choose from.

So I worried, and M…well I cut her off from emails detailing our flight and all the communications between the customs officials and handlers weeks ago.

After getting everything ready we got up bright and early Friday morning and made our way to the airport.  Like I said, I was worried how he would react, but to be honest I think he was better composed than me throughout the day.

Between checking him out of Japanese quarantine and checking him in with the airline, we had some time to burn and decided to make the most of it by running sprints to calm each other down.  Finally after about twenty minutes Giz paused briefly, tugged at his leash, and put himself in his crate.

I’ll never forget that moment as he looked at me and said with his eyes, “I’m ready.”

Leaving him at the check-in was the hardest part and something I pray I never need to do again.

From there I ran to the gate to make sure he boarded the plane, but after being told he was already on board requested proof.  This led to a rather amusing sequence of seeing a half dozen members of the grounds crew taking him off the plane and putting him back on once I gave the go ahead.

Call me crazy, but I explained to the staff at the gate, “If this dog is not on the plane, my wife will kill me, and then she will see to it that you and everyone else you know are dealt with in the same fashion!”

From there I got onboard and a little less than three hours later arrived in Shanghai sprinting to the baggage claim hoping Giz was okay.  But even this proved amusing as the young female customs official proceeded to hold me up for a few minutes as my passport photo and current look aren’t quite in line.

Customs official – “Errr, ummmm,…err” – Looks back and forth between the passport and me

Me – “Yeah, working in Japan can do this to you.” -Gesturing at my bald/shaved head

Customs official -  ”No…no, I think you look hot!” – Trying to recover quickly as she handed me my passport

Me – “Ummm, Thanks?!?” – Sprinting away

Fortunately before I could even get all of my paperwork in order there he was in the baggage claim on a trolley being wheeled towards me by the quarantine official.

I honestly don’t think the two of us had ever been happier to see each other.  When it came time to have our picture taken for his file, he wouldn’t stop licking me.  It finally got to the point that the nurse gave up and kept the best one of the bunch.  (Imagine me holding him as he proceeds to lick my nose as my head reels back.)

Soon after I had to leave him again, but I knew he would be fine as he’d already survived the toughest part.

A week later he was delivered right to our front door with the same look on his face at the airport.

And yet…

Within minutes he picked up her scent.  For the rest of the day he kept waiting for her, leaning up against the windows, and burrowing himself under the covers on the bed.

When M finally arrived home, I knew it was all worth it as the mother child reunion was underway.

Up next, M will get Giz all of his papers and license thus registering him in his 3rd country.  Up to now he’s been a great sport in all of this, but we keep waiting to hear where he would like to retire…

Meanwhile as we always say, “No man or beagle will ever be left behind!”

Meanwhile, for those of you playing along at home, if you guessed blanket, give yourself 5 points and a cookie.  Two night sleeping under a bath towel were unpleasant at best.  Meanwhile anyone who guessed plates, 2 points.  That situation I’m still trying to work around.  

Basically I eat everything I cook directly out of the frying pan, which is wildly entertaining as it reminds of a restaurant my family frequented when I was a kid.  The type of place that called potatoes, “spuds” and labeled the kids’ menu “For Miners Only.”  I’m sure the novelty will wear off soon (probably somewhere between the 15th to 20th time I burn my fingers), but for a change of pace I decided to venture out to eat this weekend.    

Which brings to mind a set of recent articles that cracked me up…

Most Expensive Cities – Real Estate

Most Expensive Cities – Fast Food

Everyone says Tokyo is wildly expensive, but I honestly believe it comes down to common sense.  For example, my lunch this weekend at one of my favorite ramen shops located a few blocks from the train station where we work only cost me $7.  I got a fantastic bowl of ramen with a side dish of rice while listening to Dexter Gordon and Hank Mobley records playing in the background.

Is this an exception to the rule?  

Hardly.

Rule of thumb in Tokyo and I would imagine Osaka (city #2 on the list), the proximity of a restaurant in relation to a train station often dictates the value for money you will get for your meal.  Another good sign is the  percentage of salarymen amongst the paying customers.  If you don’t believe me, stick your head in a noodle shop or sushi joint and count the number of men in black suits with the look of bliss on their faces as they work their way through a sampler of tuna, salmon, shrimp, and eel for $10.  So long as you can get a menu in english or one with pictures you can muddle your way through just fine.  

Even if you’re not that adventurous convenience stores are on every corner and filled with small bags of snacks and drinks that only cost a few dollars as well.  

To me the biggest issue is that too often as tourists and expats we get caught up in the creature comforts and that’s what we end up paying a small ransom for. Going to an expat grocer will often run up your bills as you stock up on cheese, peanut butter, and oreos, but if you’re willing to embrace the local delicacies you will often go home just as happy and with a lot more money in your pocket.  

So is Japan expensive?  

Yeah, but compared to New York, far more manageable if you’re smart enough to avoid eating Big Macs.